Beyond Bollywood: A Real-Life Everest Base Camp Odyssey
Introduction
Life has a remarkable way of inspiring us, sometimes when we least expect it. For us, the seed of conquering Everest Base Camp (EBC) was sown in an unlikely place, a Bollywood movie called "Uunchai." Just a year ago, we watched as three older men and a woman embarked on an awe-inspiring journey to climb Everest Base Camp. As we walked out of the theater that evening, my husband Pradeep and I exchanged a look, and it was in that moment we realized that we, too, needed to embark on this incredible adventure.
The Journey Begins
Before we knew it, the journey had begun. And we were not alone in our desire to reach the Everest Base Camp. Others joined our expedition, and by the end, we were a diverse and an eclectic group of eight, each with their unique stories and abilities: Hon, Santosh, Mike, Jan, our son Ranjan, Sumeet, Pradeep, and I. We ranged in age from 31 to 74, and the next six months were dedicated to preparation.
Preparation and Determination
Preparation became the cornerstone of our journey. Pradeep and I embarked on an intensive training regimen, completing nearly 80 hikes ranging from 4 to 12 miles. Our journey also took us to Mauna Kea in Hawaii, a 14,000 ft peak, and to the fourteeners like Mount Elbert in Leadville, Colorado, to prepare for the high altitudes of the Himalayas.
However, life has a way of throwing unexpected challenges in our path. Just six weeks before our scheduled departure, I suffered an injury known as piriformis syndrome, which left a part of my right hip agitated and immobile. Instead of giving up, I focused on healing, relying on physical therapy, yoga therapy, dietary changes, and a supportive care team.
Despite my best effort we know that some things were beyond our control. As Deepak, the owner of the trekking company we worked with in Nepal @TrekkingPlanner, wisely said, "You don't decide. The mountain decides whether you reach its peak." This was a valuable lesson in letting go and accepting that not everything in life can be controlled. Instead of rigid goals, we focused on strong intentions, the choices of how we wanted to undertake this journey. There was an alternate plan, in case I was not able to go with the current plan.
The Trek Begins
The 12-day trek covered over 100 kilometers and reached altitudes of up to 17,600 feet. We landed in Lukla, home to one of the world's most perilous airports with its dangerously short runway. From Lukla, we trekked to Jorsale, Phakding, and Namche Bazaar and onward to Tengbouche, Pangbouche, Dingbouche, Thukla, Lobuche, Gorakshep and finally to Everest Base Camp at 17600 ft.
Daily journaling became an essential practice during the trek. It allowed me to reflect on my actions and recommit to my intentions. Listening to the bodies and being aware of the mind became crucial in making this a mindful journey.
Life in the Himalayas
The trek offered a glimpse into the contrasting worlds of the Himalayas. We stayed in villages with snooker tables, pubs, and cafes, yet we also encountered monasteries, prayer walls, prayer flags and prayer wheels etched with the mantra "Om Mani Padme Hum," symbolizing the human aspiration of liberation from suffering. The path to it is at the union of compassion and wisdom and that we all have access to it. There is a huge influence of Tibetan Buddhism in the Himalayas. In this tradition, prayer wheels, walls and flag, which were all along the way, are important religious and spiritual tools used to accumulate merit, purify negative karma, and send blessings into the world.
These rocks were truly marvelous and I was told that there was a whole process of carving and engraving the mantras on the rocks, starting with the selection of the rock, to its preparation and finally blessing by a monk or a lama.
We were encouraged to interact with the stones, walking around them from the left to align with the natural movement of the sun; touch them and recite the mantra while passing by.
I had the time and I wanted to accumulate as much merit and blessings I could, so I felt encouraged to follow the course.
As we ventured along our path, we found ourselves in the company of not only awe-inspiring landscapes but also a diverse tapestry of humanity. Monks, yaks, ponies, dedicated porters, knowledgeable guides, and fellow trekkers from every corner of the world walked alongside us, each bearing their own compelling tales and experiences, weaving a rich narrative of our collective journey.
In my subsequent blogs, I will share more stories. There is one story that I am compelled to share now.
In the bustling heart of Namche Bazaar, amidst the aromatic swirl of tea and the rhythm of hikers' chatter, I encountered a young Israeli girl named Nama (name changed to protect her identity). She was a vision of strength and flexibility, practicing yoga in the warmth of a teahouse amid the chilly Himalayan air. With an aura of liberation surrounding her, Nama had recently completed her compulsory military service in Israel and now sought solace in the world's embrace. Her next endeavor was nothing short of awe-inspiring – the audacious Three Passes Trek, renowned as one of the most challenging and exhilarating journeys in the Everest region, a 21-day odyssey.
What made Nama's adventure even more remarkable was her choice to undertake it solo, without the support of a guide or porter. As I listened to her story, I marveled at her courage and the quest for freedom that led her to the Himalayas. Our paths diverged, and a few days later, we encountered other young Israelis urgently trying to leave Nepal due to the escalating Israel-Palestine conflict. The Lukla airport's outgoing flights were grounded for nearly three days due to inclement weather, and we couldn't help but wonder if Nama was among those summoned to go back as well - rushing back to a different kind of battleground. The encounter left a lingering sense of sadness, a poignant reminder of the real toll such conflicts take on young lives, interrupting dreams and aspirations.
The impact is profound and lasting. Young lives, often compelled to serve in the military or contend with the consequences of conflict, yearn for a respite, a taste of the freedom and adventure that Nama pursued. Yet, these dreams are frequently disrupted, replaced by the harsh reality of a return to the front lines. In these moments, we're reminded of the countless innocent lives forever altered by the unceasing turmoil, the dreams postponed, the opportunities missed, and the long-lasting scars etched on the collective soul of a generation yearning for peace and change. This really shook me up.
A Journey of Self-Discovery
As our lead guide, Avisek Jung Thakuri Singh, wisely noted, "After 4,500 meters, what keeps you alive is yourself and your mental strength." At high altitudes, every breath takes on a profound significance. The incessant chatter gives way to mindfulness and connection with the surroundings. The desire to be first is replaced by the desire to be present.
As we embarked on the final leg of our journey towards Everest Base Camp, our footsteps led us through a region of undeniable significance, the very heart of the Khumbu Glacier. The glacier, a formidable force of nature, embodies the majestic beauty of the Himalayas while also serving as a poignant symbol of the pervasive effects of climate change.
As we ventured deeper into this glacial expanse, the profound impact of climate change became undeniable. The Khumbu Glacier, much like the rest of the world's glacial formations, was not immune to the global warming crisis. Its mighty ice mass, a living testament to centuries of slow and steady growth, was retreating at an alarming rate. Massive ice blocks that once stood proudly as silent sentinels had now shrunk, leaving behind ghostly remains that spoke of a rapidly warming planet.
The environment, while still awe-inspiring, had grown fragile under the relentless onslaught of climate change. With each passing year, the glacier thinned and retreated further, and its movement became more unpredictable and treacherous. The guides, with their keen understanding of the region, expressed genuine concern about the glacier's future. The rocks falling and shifting had become increasingly precarious, and the potential risks for mountaineers and trekkers alike were growing. Our journey was an awakening, a reminder that these magnificent landscapes, which had remained virtually unchanged for centuries, were shifting before our eyes. It underscored the necessity for collective action to safeguard these pristine environments for future generations.
Achieving the Goal
After 11 days, 100+ kilometers of trekking, an 8,000-foot gain in altitude, and at 17,600 ft altitude, we reached our destination. On the 7th of October, at approximately 2 pm, we stood at the top of the sliding rock that marked the Everest Base Camp. We had done it!
The journey had taught me many valuable lessons: the value of preparation, the importance of clear intention, and the beauty of staying present in the moment. I had ventured into a world where I were humbled by the grandeur of the Himalayas, met people from all walks of life, and learned that sometimes, the most significant achievements are born from letting go and accepting the uncertainties of life.
I left the Everest Base Camp with a sense of accomplishment, not just for reaching the destination, but for the journey of self-discovery that unfolded along the way. It was a journey that reminded me that sometimes, the most profound changes occur when we decide to reach for new heights, both within ourselves and in the world around us.